Montmartre's Quiet Food Spots Locals Actually Use

Why Paris for Montmartre food hidden gems

Montmartre sits on a hill in the 18th arrondissement, and the higher you climb past Abbesses, the better the food gets and the fewer souvenir shops you see. Expect to spend €25-45 per person at lunch, €40-70 at dinner. Spring and early autumn are best — winter is moody but many smaller places close for two weeks in February.

Detailed Reviews

1. Le Coq Rico

Antoine Westermann turned a whole building on Rue Lepic into a temple for poultry, and the result is less gimmicky than it sounds. You order a bird — Bresse hen, guinea fowl, Challans duck — and it arrives carved, with the carcass brought out separately so nothing is wasted. The dining room is calm and well-lit, which in Montmartre is rarer than it should be.

The whole roast chicken for two runs around €98 and yes, that's a lot for chicken, but you'll understand by the second bite.

Best for: A proper dinner that isn't trying to be trendy Local tip: Sit at the counter if you're solo — they do a half-bird option there that isn't on the main menu.

2. Bouillon Pigalle

This is the cheap Paris bistro experience everyone keeps promising you and rarely delivers. Starters from €2.50, mains under €13, and the wait outside can hit 45 minutes at 8pm on a Saturday. No reservations, ever — they're firm about it.

The œuf mayo is €1.90 and genuinely good. Skip the desserts and walk five minutes for ice cream instead.

Best for: Travelers watching the budget who still want the white-tablecloth feel Local tip: Show up at 11:45am or 2:30pm to walk straight in. The 7-9pm window is brutal.

3. Le Relais Gascon

A two-floor place on Rue des Abbesses that's been doing the same enormous garlic-potato-topped salads for decades. The salade Gasconne with warm potatoes, garlic, and gizzards is the move — confit de canard works too if salads feel wrong for dinner. Expect around €16-22 for a main.

It's not refined, the wine list is short, and the upstairs room feels a bit cramped. But it's open late, the staff are quick, and you'll leave full enough to skip breakfast.

Best for: A late lunch after walking the hill Local tip: Ask for a table downstairs — the upstairs gets warm in summer and the music is louder.

4. La Mascotte

Open since 1889 on the corner of Rue des Abbesses and Rue des Martyrs, this is where the neighborhood old guard goes for oysters and choucroute. The tiled floor, the brass, the slightly grumpy waiters in long aprons — none of it is staged.

The plateau de fruits de mer is the order, around €45 for a solid selection. Lunch menus from €28 are better value than dinner if you're price-sensitive.

Best for: A long Sunday lunch with someone you actually want to talk to Local tip: Reserve the terrace in summer but don't bother in winter — the inside is the whole point.

5. Hardware Société

A Melbourne import on Rue des Trois Frères, right under Sacré-Cœur, which on paper should be a disaster — and isn't. The brunch is genuinely well-executed: poached eggs that aren't rubbery, proper flat whites, and a baked eggs in tomato dish that's worth the €17.

Weekend mornings are a scrum. The room is small, sunlight pours in, and they won't take reservations for groups under four.

Best for: Brunch travelers who've had enough of dry croissants Local tip: Go Tuesday or Wednesday around 10am — same menu, no wait, and you'll still beat the Sacré-Cœur crowds afterwards.

Local Tips for Montmartre food hidden gems

• ▸ Avoid anywhere on Place du Tertre. Photos of plastic menus in five languages are a red flag — walk three streets downhill instead.
• ▸ For dinner reservations, book 4-7 days ahead for Coq Rico and La Mascotte. The others are walk-in or short notice.
• ▸ Order the house wine by the pichet (carafe) — €8-14 and almost always decent. Bottle lists at small Montmartre places are marked up hard.
• ▸ Combine lunch at Le Relais Gascon with a walk down Rue Lepic to Café des Deux Moulins (the Amélie one) — fine for a coffee, mediocre for food.

FAQ

Q: Is Montmartre worth eating in or should I go elsewhere? A: It's worth it if you stay off the main tourist streets. The blocks around Rue des Abbesses, Rue des Martyrs, and lower Rue Lepic have more good restaurants per square meter than most arrondissements. Place du Tertre, on the other hand, you can confidently skip.

Q: How much should I budget for dinner in Montmartre? A: Plan €30-45 per person at a place like Le Relais Gascon or Hardware Société, €60-80 at La Mascotte or Le Coq Rico with wine. Bouillon Pigalle can land you under €20 including a glass of wine, which is rare in central Paris.

Q: Where should I eat in Montmartre as a solo traveler? A: Bouillon Pigalle has communal-feeling tables and zero awkwardness about eating alone. Le Coq Rico's counter is the best high-end option for one. Avoid the brasseries on Place du Tertre — you'll get the worst table and the slowest service.

The Verdict

Best for couples: La Mascotte, especially a corner banquette on a Sunday at 1pm. Best for budget: Bouillon Pigalle, no contest — just commit to the off-peak timing. Best for first-timers: Le Relais Gascon hits the classic Paris bistro register without the markup. Best for locals (or feeling like one): Le Coq Rico for a real meal, Hardware Société for a midweek brunch when the neighborhood is quiet.